Friday, December 11, 2009
Photo Galleries fixed
Saturday, December 5, 2009
Fun things to do with canoes in the winter.
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Found this neat site.
Glossary of Canoeing Terminology
I hope you all have been enjoying the weekly posts. Please feel free to visit the blog and comment on posts you see and enjoy. Also, if you would like to write a post please feel free to do that as well, and let me know.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
TIPS FOR A FUN AND SAFE CANOE TRIP
Taken from http://www.canoepa.com/tips/
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Naming of Parts—Canoes
Naming of Parts—Canoes
By Tamia Nelson
Canoes come in many different shapes and sizes, and they've been made of all kinds of materials, from paper to concrete. No matter how much they differ, though, they all share certain bits and pieces. We're going to look at some of them here.
To begin with, what makes a canoe different from other boats? Good question. But it's not an easy one to answer. In fact, I won't even try. I don't have to. Farwell took a stab at it a while back. If you're curious, check out his article. (See the first entry in Further Reading, below.) For the moment, however, let's just assume that we all know a canoe when we see one. And now let's name some of the parts.
Take a look at the illustration below. It shows a tandem canoe. A tandem canoe is one designed for two paddlers. Solo boats are intended for…well…solo paddlers. Simple, eh?
Surprised? You didn't know that a canoe could have so many parts? Happily, many of them are self-explanatory. How hard is it to recognize a seat when you see one, after all? But look closer. The two seats aren't the same. One is wider than the other, and it's set further back from its end. What's going on?
Here's the skinny. Many—but not all!—canoes are symmetrical: the front end of the canoe is the same shape as the back end. But paddlers aren't symmetrical. Our front ends don't look much like our back ends, do they? And the two paddlers in a tandem canoe have to face the same way. (You can try paddling facing in opposite directions, but I don't recommend it.) When two paddlers are seated in a tandem canoe, therefore, they both face the front end of the boat, or the bow, and the bow paddler has to squeeze his legs into a narrow, tapered space. So his seat has to be pushed back. The paddler in the rear of the boat—that's the stern—has a much easier time of it. She's got all the room in the world for her legs. So her seat can be closer to her end of the boat.
If the seats are placed right, the result is a well-balanced boat. Canoes are usually happiest when they're trimmed, or balanced, more or less level. That makes sense, doesn't it? In a solo canoe, therefore, the single seat is usually placed just aft of midships. Translation: it's just behind the middle of the boat. That makes for good balance and easy paddling.
Take another look at the illustration above. You'll notice that the canoe in the picture has three thwarts. Thwarts stiffen the canoe and prevent the sides from pulling apart under load. Not all canoes have three thwarts. Some canoes have two; others, only one. A few really large canoes have more than three. It doesn't matter how many thwarts your canoe has, though, just as long as it has enough.
Now look at the cross-section—the sketch that shows you what you'd see if you cut a canoe in half. (Don't try this with your boat!) You'll notice the term tumblehome. No, it's not what the jolly voyageurs did when they'd drunk too much double-distilled rum. Tumblehome refers to the inward slope of the sides of the canoe, up near the boat's gunwale, or top rail. The gunwale—it's pronounced "gunnel," by the way—also acts as a structural support, just like the thwarts. It defines the shape of the boat, in other words, and it helps hold that shape under stress.
Not all canoes have tumblehome. Some have sides that slope outward. This is called flare. And some are straight up and down. (A few sophisticated canoes have flare, tumblehome, and straight sides in different places along their hulls. Isn't fiberglass wonderful?)
Now let's get to the bottom of things. The fore-and-aft centerline of the bottom of a canoe is the keel. Some boats have completely flat, or straight, keels, but most lift a bit at the ends. This lift is called rocker, and it makes boats easier to turn. Canoes with straight keels want to go straight. Canoes with a lot of rocker want to turn. Flatwater paddlers like straight keels. Whitewater paddlers like rockered boats. Different strokes….
Take time to get to know your canoe, and to learn the names of its parts. But remember, the most critical part of a canoe is the big hole at the top that lets in all the water. You want to keep that part high and dry! 'Nuff said.
Copyright © 2001 by Verloren Hoop Productions. All rights reserved.
Original website http://www.paddling.net/guidelines/showArticle.html?9
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
How to Canoe
Editorial committee: Jim Jackson, Sandy Primm, Carol Springer.
1980 The Kansas City Star Co.
(Reprinted by permission of Carol Springer).HOW TO CANOE*
Keeping your canoe moving downstream is easy on the streams of the upper Meramec region. You just have to keep the boat pointed in the way you want to go, and let the river do the work. Yet, experience has shown this is not as simple as it appears.
The trick is to get a good start: make sure that the person sitting in the front has enough leg room. (Last summer a friend of ours spent her first float paddling the bow position in a reversed canoe. She had 4 inches of leg room for the trip, and not a very good time.) Generally the person in the front paddles straight forward and the one in the stern also provides forward umph, but is responsible for steering and not tipping.
We might as well face one big issue right off - keeping the canoe steered property can be a source of friction in relationships, platonic or otherwise. Floating can be as challenging as hanging wallpaper. While each couple will have to figure their own way of getting downstream, we suggest that the person in the back worry about the steering and the bow paddler try to provide gentle reminders that a rock or whatever is dead ahead. The bow person makes the best lookout.
The forward stroke is the same for both bow and stern paddlers. Of course there's all kinds of fancy techniques you can learn, but you should know that the upper hand on the paddle grips the handle on top, and does not hold the thing like it was a golf club. The lower arm, holding the paddle's throat - does most of the work, so you might switch paddling sides once in a while to keep both arms evenly exercised.
To turn the canoe, the stern paddler can do one of two things. He or she can do a forward sweep stroke which will turn the canoe toward the side opposite you're paddling on. To do this stroke, you reach the paddle out in front, but instead of pulling it down alongside the canoe, you reach out the blade in the water, making a 'C' shape as if stirring a huge kettle of apple butter. Pull the paddle in as far behind you as you stuck it out in front, then lift it out and do another if necessary. A quicker way of turning is the reverse sweep. It is based on that same ‘C’ shape in the water, but do it backwards, so the paddle is moved toward the bow. The stroke, if done with a fair amount of force, is usually so powerful that it's necessary to do only halfway. Just take the paddle out of the water when your arm holding the throat of the paddle is fully extended in the middle of the stroke. It's best to use these reverse sweeps when a quick turn is necessary.
Even on straight stretches of river, keeping the canoe going straight isn't a simple matter. The easiest way to go straight is for the two floaters to have their paddles on opposite sides of the canoe and both paddle straight ahead.
If you just paddle like that, the canoe ends up going off to one side, right? Okay, to prevent this, the stern person should do the 'J' stroke every second or third stroke. This is probably the trickiest stroke to pick up: you do about three-quarters of a normal stroke, then instead of bringing the paddle straight back, you give the blade a one-quarter turn outward to put a tiny reverse sweep on the end of the stroke. That makes the hook of the 'J'. It'll take a bit of practice to get this one. If you are too frustrated and can't seem to see how the 'J' stroke works, you can always both switch paddling sides every five or six strokes. But that's a hassle.
The only other stroke the sternperson must know is the backwater. It's simply paddling backwards. It will stop you, but not on a dime.
So if you do have to stop, it may be best to hop out - making sure the water's not too deep - and hold onto the pointer (the line tied to the stern or bow) so the canoe doesn't go off without you.
The one special stroke the bow person should know is the 'draw stroke' or 'pull-to'. Both names describe it well: you stick the paddle deep in the water as for out directly opposite from you as you can.
Then pull it in, mainly with the lower arm, to you. The draw stroke takes you towards the side you do it on. You'll need to do left or right draws when rocks or riffles or trees come up. The stroke moves the bow over quickly but does not turn the stern as well, so the person in back had best be ready to also do a draw stroke, or a sweep, when the person in the bow finds it necessary to do this maneuvering.
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Canoe Paddling - Focus on the Basics
Canoe Paddling - Focus on the Basics
by Steve Salins
first appeared in Canoe Journal 2005
No matter how practiced a canoeist you are, you can develop bad habits, or “bugs” in your paddling stroke. Let’s review the basic principles of pulling a canoe forward through the water so we can better enjoy trips to come.
One thing that “bugs” me is canoeists who lean forward as they paddle. I wonder if Mom ever taught them to sit up straight. They should. Power and performance in a canoe come from the back, not from leaning forward, and not really from the arms, either. Sit up straight, let your body paddle the canoe, and you’ll find all kinds of untapped power flowing into your paddle blade.
Head up
How do you sit up straight? One way is to start at the top: stabilize your head. Visualize your head moving neither forward or back, nor side to side. A stable head encourages body rotation with each forward stroke. That rotary motion of your body is done with your back, which is more powerful than the strongest of arms. Furthermore, a stable head keeps your body centered in the boat, so your canoe maintains an even keel. A straight posture also allows you to relax; it’s tiring to lean forward all the time. Relaxing in a canoe is a good thing, whether you are moving with purpose or just gunkholing. When you sit straight, relaxed, and with a stable head, you can look around and paddle with more efficient power. Ask a friend to watch you paddle. Does your head stay in one place? If so, good!
Arms Locked
Next, focus on the arms. Power comes from strong back muscles as you rotate; consider each arm to be a connector between your back and your paddle. That’s not to say your arms don’t move; they do. But if you want to learn how it should feel, lock your arms, elbows tight, and take a couple of practice strokes. Even standing on shore doing “air” strokes with rigid arms, you can tell how your body must rotate to complete a stroke (remember, your head stays still). Your back rotation around your spine is your engine; your arms connect the engine to the paddle. Take that same feeling in the canoe with you as you paddle. There’s the body rotation you seek.
Sit up straight, reach up high to place your paddle in the water, choke up the lower hand on the paddle shaft, and finish up with a relaxing rotating flourish to rewind your engine.
Grip Hand High
Now that you’re using your body (feels strong, doesn’t it?), help yourself by allowing your grip hand to rise high as you reach forward with the paddle. No mealy arm-action stroke for you—reach that upper hand high and plant your blade in front without leaning forward. Sound contradictory? Here’s another trick to make this work: move your lower hand up the paddle shaft a bit (choke up). Adjust your lower hand so it remains just above the gunwale throughout your paddling motion. Instead of leaning forward to extend your blade, let the lower portion of the paddle shaft do the extension for you, while you stay centered in the boat. You paddle with more authority and increase the range of your paddle blade. No need to lean forward to grab water; it will come to you if you let it. You will feel the difference when you paddle, and if you find your lower hand slipping back into old habits, wrap a few turns of skinny duct tape where the lower hand should be to help remind you.
Follow Up
We’re nearly finished here. You’re sitting up, reaching up, and choking up. Now “follow up” to prepare your body for the next stroke. Whether you use a high recovery (vertical paddle) or a horizontal recovery (across your body), this movement should be the “relax” part of your stroke—while at the same time rewinding your torso to power the next stroke. I think a canoe paddle recovery is the “elegant” portion of canoeing. It’s one independent element that our double-bladed brethren don’t share, since their recovery on one side is concurrent with a power stroke on the other. For canoeists, a relaxed recovery is a moment to be savored.
And there you have it: sit up straight, reach up high to place your paddle in the water, choke up the lower hand on the paddle shaft, and finish up with a relaxing rotating flourish to rewind your engine.
I can feel it already; the bugs are leaving your forward stroke! Good paddling!
Saturday, August 29, 2009
Did you take advantage of summer end clearance?
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
A "slightly less than epic" canoe trip
On August 17 Paula and I finally got a little time on the water. It wasn't epic by any means, but it was very enjoyable. We floated down the river from Oil City to Franklin. Ryan dropped us off in Oil City and left a vehicle for us at the Franklin end so when we got out we could just drive home.
The day was beautiful and we had a great time. A few hours on the water can be very healing. I'm thankful we live in an area that has so many great places to canoe, kayak, and boat.
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Tieing Knots
Well I found a site to help with this.
Animated Knots by Grog™
TIE KNOTS THE FUN AND EASY WAY
This site shows you how to tie any kind of knot and what that knot is best suited for. I have added it to the side bar links for easy access.
Don't forget to tell your friends about EpicCanoeTrip.com!
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Thought I would share on waterproof matches
This was taken from http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Waterproof-Matches
and you can purchase storm proof matches here http://www.emergencyresources.com/er_p11.html
If anyone know where you can still buy strike anywhere matches, please share. I haven't found them localy.
Make Waterproof Matches
Waterproof matches are generally expensive to buy. But you can make your own for only a fraction of the price. Listed below are a number of effective & proven ways to make waterproof matches that you can use when camping, backpacking, or in an emergency.
From Safest to least Safest Methods
All the below methods involve some risk. If you are a minor, do not carry out any of these activities, without the permission of a competent adult supervisor. The list is ranked from safest to least safest. .
Method 1: Use Turpentine
The BEST & SAFEST Method is to use Turpentine. (Turpentine has a higher "flash point" relative to Acetone, which commonly used in Nail Polish. Nor does it involve the use of flame as is needed in the Wax or Paraffin methods.)
- Pour 2 to 3 large tablespoons of Turpentine into a small (Tumbler sized) glass.
- Place the matches, (Head down) into the Turpentine and allow the matches to soak for 5 minutes. During that time the turpentine will soak into the head as well as the stem. All the water will be driven off by the turpentine.
- Remove the matches and spread them out to dry out on a sheet of newspaper. Generally, 20 minutes for excess turpentine to be evaporated is recommended. Matches treated in this way remain waterproof for several months or longer.
Method 2: Use Nail Polish
- Dip the head end of the match into clear nail polish far enough to cover at least an eighth of an inch (3 millimeters) of the stick below the head.
- Hold the match for a few seconds to allow the polish to dry and then place the match on a table or counter so that the head is suspended off the edge of the surface.
- Place a sheet of newsprint below to catch anything that may drip off.
Method 3: Use a Candle
- Light a candle and let it burn down until you have a good amount of liquid wax (about a half of an inch or 1 centimeter).
- Extinguish the candle.
- Dip the head end of the match into the wax far enough to cover at least an eighth of an inch (3 millimeters) of the stick below the head.
- Hold the match for a few seconds to allow the wax to harden slightly and then place the match on a table or counter so that the head is suspended off the edge of the surface.
- When the wax has cooled, but not completely hardened, pinch the end of the wax coating (towards the stick), forming a tight seal.
Method 4: Using Paraffin Wax
- Melt enough paraffin wax in a double boiler to be able to coat with wax about a half of an inch (1 centimeter) deep.
- Wrap some twine or jute string around several matches from the bottom, to just below the heads of the matches.
- Coat the bottom of the torch thickly in wax and the heads lightly. Make sure that there is a complete seal.
- Put in water to cool the wax quickly. This makes a torch that can burn for 10 or more minutes.
Tips
- Turpentine has a relatively high "flash point" in comparison to Nail polish, therefore it is the safest to use. Mineral Turpentine, Pine, or Citrus turpentine all have the same waterproofing capacity.
- Turpentine effectively displaces all hygroscopically absorbed moisture content. So any wood stemmed matches (regardless of age can be used).
- Do not use a plastic cup to sit turpentine in, as it may be melted by the chemical itself.
- Decant the remainder of the unused Turpentine back into the original container.
- Do not drink from the glass that you used to soak the matches.
- If you don't use strike-anywhere matches, be sure to store a striking surface with your matches.
- This should be done soon after buying the matches so that the matches don't pick up too much moisture from the air.
- Even though the matches will be waterproof, it is a good idea to store your finished matches & stiriker patch in a waterproof container, such as a small 35 mm ffilm container, or any other sealable & waterproof canister.
- The Nail Polish method is more volatile than Turpentine, but is better than wax that can more easily break or be scratched.
- The candle method works best with wood stemmed matches. Do NOT USE with Plasticed or Waxed stems.
- When using either of the wax methods, work as quickly as you can while still being safe so the wax doesn't harden.
- If you do not have a double boiler, you can melt the paraffin wax using a metal bowl over a pot of boiling water. You can also melt the wax in a pan on low heat, but this increases the chance of causing a fire.
- The matches may also be completely covered with the wax to make sure water can't migrate up the matchstick.
Warnings
- Turpentine is poisonous if swallowed. or inhaled intensely over a period of time.
- Always use caution when working with fire.
- Wax in its liquid state is very hot and may cause severe burns. It may also catch fire.
- Nail polish (and wax) can stain fabric and surfaces, so it is a good idea to cover your work surface in newspaper. Nail Polish is also highly flamable. Nail Polish is also a known carcenogenic substance.
- Paraffin wax is incredibly hard to remove from a pan. Use an old pan/double boiler or purchase one second-hand for this purpose. Alternately, use an old coffee can or #10 tin can set in a pot of water. Paraffin Wax is also highly reactive in the presence of introduced water droplets.
Things You'll Need
- Sturdy wooden matches (preferably the strike-anywhere sort)
- Candles, Paraffin Wax, Nail Polish or Turpentine.
- A saucepan or double boiler
- Tongs or fork to dip matches into wax
- Newspaper or other table covering
- Small glass tumbler.
- Fire extinguisher or fire rug.
- Life insurance.
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
Because someone asked about them....
Also Dunhams has some kayaks on sale right for $249 for a decent one man job. Get ready for 2010 the Solo year!!
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Epic Canoe Trip 2009
Well Epic Canoe Trip 2009 was pretty great. Chad and I were the only ones launching at Buckaloons. I had a broken hand so Chad paddled me down the river the first day. The water was moving fast and we saw some cool sights, but by the time I would get to the camera we had already zoomed by them. Time for a waterproof camera. We did manage to chase a herring for a bit, and then see a bank cover with like 15 turtles. Most of them got in water before I got the camera out.
The water was moving so fast that we reached the island in 4 hours without hardly even paddling.
JR and Shawn met us near the island in a motor boat and floated to the first island with us. They hung out for a bit while we setup camp and started cooking. They had things to do in the morning so the took off before dinner.
Chad taught me how to play Cribbage and we had good time catching up on what felt like years worth of stuff since we had last talked.
I had the Life Saver Bottle this year, which meant no hauling water and weighing down the canoe. Chad figured out how to make it run so he could chug 750ml at a time. :) In the morning Chad made an awesome breakfast and then we packed up and headed to the Tidiute boat launch to swap Chad for Joe and Matt. We showed up at the launch right as about 30 boats with lots of beer launched into the river.
We had this drunk floatilla in orbit around for a couple of hours. You could smell the alcohol with 100ft of them. It was bad. They were loud and rowdy and here they are already stopping to pee after being on the water only 30 minutes or so. These guys were already buzzing cause they turned right towards us a let rip.It started raining after a while and so we pulled up under a bridge to wait it out. Joe says you can sit in the eddy of the pillar if you get in there. I was impressed for a bit until I realized he was holding a stick under water to hold us there. He ended holding it with his foot so he could "talk" (he claims he can't tell a story without his hands). After checking out big nasty spiders under the bridge we headed on down to Tionesta. We shot the rapids and did some freestyle canoeing, slaloming downed trees and rocks and things like that. We got to Tionesta and bought some food and it was still on 3pm. Since there was only 3 of us we decided to keep going rather then stay at Millipede island. We looked at the GPS and saw some other islands about 2 hrs down river that looked good and off we went. We stopped at a couple islands along the way before finding one that had nice tree clusters for hammocks and some decent firewood. By this point it was raining pretty steady and starting to get dark. We started gathing sticks and cleaning up a camp spot and we hung a tarp to get out of the rain. This is when we realized that my light was rusted up and out of fluid and the Matts matches were soaked.
Joe found a big solid piece of rotten tree, and Matt found some burlap mixed in vasoline for flint that was in his pack. Joe put the burlap mixture on the piece of log and we got a bunch of wet, but very small sticks broke up for him. After trying a few of the wet matches, Joe finally got one to light. So with one match, we lit this nice fire. It was sketchy for a bit as we waited for the sticks to dry then burn. A little bug spray helped it along. :) Finally we had a good fire burning and drying clothes. EPIC!!
Sunday morning brought high humidity as the sun tried to bake of the rain from the night before. The extra paddling on Saturday paid off and we were to Oleopolus by 10:30-11am before it had a chance to get really hot and muggy.
All in all the small group was fun. It gave old friends a chance to catch up. We still had some epic times, and managed to make it fast, but relaxing run down the river.
We are thinking for 2010, everyone should solo (2010, SOLO see it just has to be). So if you have been waiting for an excuse to buy a kayake, this is it!
Thanks guys for carrying me down the river!! I had a good time! 12 years of Epic!
Thursday, August 6, 2009
The Pedal Powered Canoe
North trip Coordinates
Latitude: | 41°50'21"N |
Longitude: | 79°15'21.9"W |
Camping at first Island (from my GPS)
41 40.789n, 079 23.667w
Camping at second island (from my GPS)
41 28.681n, 079 27.986w
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
tires
Launch on friday.
Allegheny River, Buckaloons Boat Launch | ||||||||||||
http://seagrant.psu.edu/ |
Survey Date: | 5/16/2007 |
Latitude: | 41°50'21"N |
Longitude: | 79°15'21.9"W |
County: | Warren |
State: | PA |
Road Cross: | Intersection of Routes 62 and 6. ANF property. |
Boat Launch - submerged rocks, vegetation, and cement
Monday, August 3, 2009
Epic Canoe Trip 2010
Sunday, August 2, 2009
Water Update
Saturday, August 1, 2009
Friday, July 31, 2009
PEDAL POWER!!
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Photos from previous trips
These are required by law.
You must have these things if you are in a boat on the water.
1. ID - drivers license or something like
2. Signal making device - whistle or air horn
3. Flotation device - and not a cooler with a ratchet strap on it
Technically a canoe does not have to be registered, although it is recommended and it's only $18.
We will probably put in up at Buckaloons the morning of the 7th (10am), so a launch pass will be needed to us that facility. I will not have any way to transport a bunch of canoes this year, so folks will be on their own.
Remember this is the "North" trip this year, so hammock space can get scarce on the 2nd night. The trees are a little big to reach around. Bring some really long straps, or a tarp to lay on the ground.
Sunscreen and water!! Most of us have done this trip before so it should not be a big deal.
Look forward to seeing you on the river!
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
The grand old tips from a veteran canoer
- bring plenty to drink.. Fluids are at a premium by the last morning
- sun burn is a real threat.. (out for many hours in the open sun with the reflection of the water) bring high power, waterproof sunblock and use it. but DON'T get it in your eyes.. It's waterproof and won't stop burning like crazy for a long time. Insides of thighs and calves are more sun exposed than normal in the squatting boat position..
- waterproof "dry bags" are a smart move in case of rain or capsizing
- bring a light for night time.. It gets completely dark
- we don't litter.. you will pack out everything you bring in. glass bottles and metal cans tend to be hassle over the 3 days.
- the lighter you pack the higher you float, the easier you propel, the less you drag, the quicker you break camp, and the less comfortable you are while camping.. Your call.
- cell phones work intermittantly
- Food is expensive, but available at the IGA in Tionesta on the 2nd night..
- there really are river police after all, so bring life jackets and register your boat if it's not (at least in Emlenton.. )
- GPS's work slick, but may sink. iPods, eyeglasses, buckled canoes, pipe boombooms and dead geese definitely sink. Bavarian pretzels don't.
- bartering exists and thrives... if you can provide a commodity like fire starting, entertainment, snacks, cigars, or coffee for others, maybe you'll be invited into a tent during a downpour for example...
- habanero sauce is really hot and you cannot ride a cooler to Oil City after dark..
- bottle rockets burn holes in brand new rain flies, and cans on the fire are NOT cooling down.
- paddling upstream sucks. a canoe CAN be help together almost exclusively with high-quality duct tape..
- the fire arms are for retrieving twitching backstraps from strangling deer on the bank, and green chicken is edible..
- gorillas in the mist are a myth and should not be fired upon
- rocks do NOT float gently to the bottoms of the river..
- the river water is NOT antiseptic and WILL put you in the hospital if you have an open wound. Ibuprofen and neosporin are nice
- DON'T mess with the cook.. or Gordon. He's armed... well.
- Joe doesn't appreciate having his generosity rammed down his throat.
- putting packs of firecrackers down porta-potty exhaust tubes is NOT socially acceptable
- towing swimmers is a losing proposition
- milipedes are toxic to mucus linings of the eyes, nose and throat
- "mup-heres" are almost as deserving of tarring and feathering as the game commission
- Ted is narcoleptic dead weight as a partner. If you are in Chris's boat, you will dump at least once. If you are near Chris at any time you are in danger of random acts of exuberance.. (like being friends with an enormous saint Bernard with ADHD)
- that thing in the middle of the river isn't swimming upstream.. harpooned turtles do.
- a little b&e during desperate midnight island camp floodings is a case for moral relativism, but leads to warm, dry poker games
- weed wackers have nothing to do with canoeing, you can't build a sail on a canoe, and holding all the boats together like a barge through rock-strewn rapids is dumb..
- rope swing at your own risk
- you will never forget this weekend. (the north trip is cooler)
Friday, July 24, 2009
Dates for Epic Canoe Trip 2009
The river is high this year so I vote for a North Trip. Anyone else care to vote?